For Cecilie Gamst Berg, staying in her native Norway was never an option. Even as a child, she felt stifled by the long, dark winters and the monotony of snow. She says her youthful disdain for herring (“Yuck”) and the cold laid the foundation for her lifelong quest for new experiences and warmer horizons, which led her to live in Hong Kong and China for 30 years before landing in Spain a few years ago. So, with the Chinese New Year approaching, we sit in Cecilie’s pretty, light-filled apartment in El Terreno to talk about her experiences. The walls of her flat are covered in momentos of her time in Hong Kong and many of her photos.
A train journey that changed everything
“I tried to leave Norway as soon as possible,” she recalls. By the age of 16, she had embarked on solo travels, and by her early 20s, she found herself in Australia, albeit briefly. “Australia was beautiful, but my visa ran out, and I couldn’t get it renewed. It was heartbreaking.” The visa issue forced her to return to Norway, but not before igniting her love for adventure. It was during her relentless attempts to return to Australia that Cecilie stumbled upon her destiny—China.
In 1988, Cecilie boarded the Trans-Siberian Railway en route to Beijing, intending to make a brief stop in China before continuing her journey to Australia. But Beijing had other plans. “I got off the train and thought, ‘Wow, this is great!’” she says. “Everything was different. The streets were filled with bicycles, everyone wore blue Mao suits, and it felt like stepping into a sepia-toned photograph.” Initially planning to spend just two days in China, Cecilie stayed for five months. “I loved how adventurous it all felt. Everyone wanted to talk to me because I stood out so much. I never felt so welcomed anywhere else,” she says.
“She recalls a moment when a taxi driver almost crashed the car from excitement witnessing Cecliie successfully buying garlic in Chinese. “He was so impressed!”.
From Beijing to Hong Kong
Cecilie’s visa in Beijing eventually ran out, and she was advised to move to Hong Kong, a city that offered her more opportunities to return to mainland China. Her transition to Hong Kong came with its own set of challenges. “It was a culture shock,” she admits. “I had just gotten used to Beijing’s old-world charm, and suddenly, I was in this bustling metropolis where everything moved at lightning speed.”
Despite her initial discomfort, Cecilie quickly adapted. She began teaching English and later Cantonese to expatriates. Life wasn’t without its peculiarities. “Once, I was on a train in Xinjiang province, and the police came to confiscate my hairspray,” she shares. “They said it was a dangerous substance. I had to write a six-page confession explaining why I had it. It was 2008, and they were preparing for the Beijing Olympics. It was absurd, but I couldn’t stop laughing.”
On another occasion, Cecilie mentioned filming with a Norwegian TV crew and asking locals about their thoughts on the impending Hong Kong handover to China. She noted, “We didn’t get to more than four people before the authorities arrived. They made me write an apology letter and said we had to delete the footage. I don’t think we did, though.”
Living under a communist government came with complexities, but Cecilie found ways to navigate them. “It was about knowing the rules and when to bend them. I was never scared, but I was always cautious,” she says. “Hong Kong was vibrant and intense. Every day felt like an adventure.”
Moving to Spain: A new chapter
In 2018, as political tensions in Hong Kong escalated, Cecilie felt the “noose tightening.” Her extensive knowledge of Chinese history helped her foresee the changes that would make life for foreigners increasingly difficult. “They started arresting people for speaking out,” she explains. “I knew it was time to leave when booksellers I knew were disappearing.”
Encouraged by a friend, she moved to Spain, choosing Mallorca for its beauty and slower pace of life. “It had to be beautiful,” she says, explaining her decision to settle on the island. “Hong Kong had become so visually oppressive. Mallorca, with its open skies and stunning landscapes, was the antidote I needed.”
Celebrating Chinese New Year in Mallorca
Cecilie’s connection to Chinese culture remains strong. She celebrates Chinese New Year with gusto, hosting traditional Sichuan feasts that bring the flavours of China to Mallorca. “The first time I hosted a Chinese New Year party here, I worried people wouldn’t understand the traditions,” she says. “But they loved it. Now, it’s an annual event.”
Chinese New Year, Cecilie explains, is a time of celebration centred around family and food. “It’s traditional to have a family dinner on New Year’s Eve,” she says, “with dishes that represent good fortune. Fish is for surplus, and long noodles for longevity.” At her upcoming party, Cecilie plans to serve dishes like “Ants Climbing a Tree”—a Sichuan classic made with spicy glass noodles and minced pork—dumplings, and fiery Gong Bao chicken. “For me, it’s about the rich flavours and the joy of sharing food that’s both vibrant and meaningful,” she says.
The Year of the Snake: What it means
This year marks the Year of the Snake, a zodiac sign Cecilie finds fascinating. “The snake is associated with wisdom, introspection, and transformation,” she explains. According to Chinese tradition, it’s a year to embrace change and adapt to new circumstances.
Cecilie points out the dual nature of the snake. “It’s both mysterious and powerful,” she says. “People born in the Year of the Snake are often intuitive and calm, but they can also be intense and determined.” She laughs and recalls a fun fact: “Both Chairman Mao and Xi Jinping were born in the Year of the Snake. It’s a sign that can symbolise great leadership—or great controversy.”
For Cecilie, the Year of the Snake is an opportunity to set intentions. “It’s a time to shed old habits and embrace growth,” she says. “And, of course, it’s always lucky to eat symbolic foods. Long noodles for longevity and uncut dumplings for prosperity are must-haves at my table.”
The culinary landscape of China
Cecilie’s expertise in Chinese cuisine extends far beyond Sichuan. She offers cooking classes that delve into the culinary traditions of different Chinese regions, like the seafood-rich dishes of Guangdong and the hearty, wheat-based staples of Beijing.
“Sichuan is known for its use of chillies and Sichuan peppercorns, creating a bold, numbing heat that’s so unique,” she explains. “In Beijing, you’ll find dishes like dumplings and noodles, which are shaped by the region’s colder climate and agricultural focus.”
The signs beside the front door are traditional in Chinese culture, wishing for luck in business and good health.
Cecilie highlights how geography influences cuisine: “Sichuan’s humid climate means people use spices and drying techniques for preservation,” she says, “whereas, in Beijing, it’s all about filling, warm dishes to combat the cold.” Her classes intertwine these insights with personal anecdotes, making them as much about storytelling as cooking. She often shares anecdotes from her time in China, such as when she ordered a dish made with live baby octopus in Korea. “I didn’t know what to do, so I just dipped it in sauce and ate it,” she laughs. “It didn’t taste of much, but the sauce was excellent.”
A life rich in stories
From Norway to China and finally to Mallorca, Cecilie’s life so far has been a tapestry of adventure, resilience, and cultural exchange. Through her cooking classes, storytelling, and celebrations of Chinese traditions, she continues to bridge the gap between East and West, sharing the richness of her experiences with all who are lucky enough to meet her. “Living in so many places has taught me that the world is vast and interconnected,” she says. “No matter where you go, food and stories unite people.” If you are interested in attending an event organised by Cecilie, you are welcome to contact her through https://penandwok.com/, where you can also buy her cookery book and enquire about Cantonese lessons.
If you want to attend the Chinese New Year celebrations look out on the Whats On pages for more info.
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