August in Soller: Fiery fiestas, traditions, and transitions

The five-day celebration in August venerates St Bartholomew, the saint of Soller, and many other places in Mallorca. We all have our traditions, and for us an annual Nit de Foc. This is a fire run accompanied by the drums of the Esclatabutzes. Add demons and a fire eating dragon in the mix and you can see where this is heading.

This is a local fiesta when many return home for the week. They love to catch up with their Mallorca world and family. There are many Sollerics who would prefer to live here but for economic reason are in other parts of the world. They all remember the St Bartomeu fiestas of their childhood, and how important it was to their families. Tradition continues and is reinforced every year by the returners.
Art, music, traditional dress, and local dancing can happen anywhere in Soller during the month of August. Celebrations on Saturday 17th August centre around the Nit of Art. The main Placa and side streets are full of the work of local artists. The Lluna is the centre of the music, and this is a joyful occasion which locals support wholeheartedly.

August is the month for some offices and shops to move to summer hours. It is quite common to find businesses only open in the morning. At the end of the month, towards the fiesta time, it is also a period when companies close for their annual holidays. Obviously, this does not apply to tourism businesses, but other types of appointments might be harder to get this month.

August marks the peak of family tourism at the same time the shops start filling with the ‘back to school’ shopping. School shoes and bags become of interest again. The sun still shines relentlessly but the mood is moving into a ‘next season’ vibe.

This is the time the new arrivals of 2024 become obvious. When they arrived a few weeks ago they could have been any other family here on holiday. Now as they prepare for school entries and leave the beach till the evening, like the locals, it identifies them as new permanent arrivals. Every year they come and also others leave. For some this was always the plan, for others it represents disappointment that things have not worked the way they envisaged.

Expat life is full of comings and goings and can be unsettling. Just as you thought a good friendship was developing, plans change, and friends leave. This has happened often in my years here. Depression and loneliness can be the experience as people feel they have many acquaintances but few friends. There are many reasons for relocation, and most are ready for the ‘getting to know you’ phase of arriving in a new place. No easy answer to this one. apart from a ready smile, and a dive in amongst the people. ‘Get up, get dressed and get out’ has been my mantra for years.

I am in Belfast for a few days this week enjoying 20 degrees and occasional showery rain. I am having the best time cooling my brain down. The depth of green in the grass tells you how often it rains here. I am in the mountains of Mourne where they touch the sea. The song, written by Percy French, of the same name, was the subject of chatter in Soller last week. Rachel, photographer, and I were remarking on how he had died of pneumonia whilst in Rachels hometown of Formby. Percy became one of the famous to have their resting place there.

Yes, I know what you are thinking… It’s August and the chatter becomes more and more surreal… I will be back soon – Happy holidays.