My Balearic bliss

Mallorca is suddenly a much quieter place, with local faces more noticeably visible all round.
November is also that time of year when the enchanting smell of wood-smoke swirls from village chimney pots as fires are lit and everything gets super cosy. I even look forward to the odd rainy day, along with the occasional mood of roaming clouds which accompany that autumnal nip in the air.

November is also a time when the ritual of morning coffee is more often than not taken ‘inside’ instead of ‘out’, amid the cacophony of vibrant, local chatter played noisily against the mouth-watering notes of the ‘merienda raciones’, as the unforgettable aroma of ‘Frito Mallorquin’ wafts along with the serving waiters. If I was blindfolded anywhere in the world, and someone passed a plate of freshly cooked ‘frito’ under my nose, I would immediately be transported home to Mallorca. Frito is the signature island essence, and although it’s served throughout the year, I always associate it with Autumn and Winter months. I suppose that’s because when you’re ‘inside’, none of the distinct aroma is lost to the wind. Same with the early morning brandies and annis liqueurs which locals generously use to top up their coffees before the day really begins. It always reminds me of the cooler yet cosier season ahead which November heralds.

Of course, there is still plenty going on, although some might mistakenly think that Mallorca is dead without the tourists. But hey! Think again! Mallorca is full of native Mallorcans, all bringing their time-honoured customs, traditions, atmosphere and local flair to their home island, which suddenly feels a lot more authentic now that the summer sunseekers have hung up their flip flops!

A myriad of local fiestas are held throughout the year, which most visiting holiday-makers never get to witness. And those traditional fiestas continue wholeheartedly as we move forward from November into the winter ahead. I adore our local mushroom fair held in Mancor de la Vall, where an eclectic forest of fungi are displayed, sold, and cooked on open barbeques. Local bars (we have 5) all showcase traditional mushroom dishes, and the atmosphere couldn’t be more authentic.

The noted Olive Fair in Caimari is another personal favourite, showcasing and celebrating the humble olive in all its glory, from the golden virgin oil to artisan works crafted from the boughs of its ancient wood. We always like to visit in the evening, when the sun has settled to fully appreciate the amber magic of the candle-lit stalls.

Of course, possibly the most famous, and definitely the largest feria on the entire Mallorcan calendar is Dijous Bo, which takes place in Inca on Thursday, November 14. Dijous Bo is much more than your average fair. It’s an extravaganza of spectacular proportions attracting more than 200,000 visitors each year from both the mainland as well as across Mallorca, winding its way through 40 streets with over 500 market stalls, showcasing everything from turron and tambourines to trampolines and tractors. Balearic gastronomy always features highly on the Dijous Bo listing, with traditional Mallorcan fayre shining shoulder to shoulder alongside the celebrating crowds. There are local pies and pastries, cocas, tarts, wines and artisan beers; olives, cheeses, sausages and the famous Iberican hams. There are artisan arts and crafts, candles, soaps, and exhibitions of leather goods. Plus, it doesn’t end there! You’ll find bird and poultry shows, falconry exhibitions, owls, eagles, livestock, horses and much much more. I’m almost exhausted just thinking about it!

November is also that time of year when it’s ‘adios’ to summer salads, and ‘hola’ to hearty stews, soups and comfort casseroles; all those traditional Mallorcan dishes, which of course you can enjoy any time of the year, yet for some reason don’t! Jumpers and scarves suddenly look inviting. Shorts have definitely been banished to the back of the wardrobe, and the mosquitos and midges have stopped biting.

November moving forward is bliss! The sun still shines. The skies are still blue. And Mallorca simply feels better than ever!