04/05/2003 00:00
TW
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WANDERING around the markets the other day it was clear that spring is well and truly upon us at last. The fruit and vegetables on the stalls were looking awesome and for any cook, you can't help but be inspired when you see fantastic fresh ingredients in their prime. Young tender leeks, wonderful prickly artichokes, morel mushrooms, sweet peas in their pods, crisp fresh rhubarb and long, slim white and green asparagus stalks. Asparagus has always been a bit of an elitist vegetable and a symbol of epicurean taste; it was thought to have originated in the eastern Mediterranean region and was cultivated by the Romans and Greeks as long ago as 200BC. It was highly valued for its medicinal properties as it was said to help restore eyesight, ease toothache and cure a bee's sting. When choosing asparagus, look for firm, brightly-coloured spears with tight, crisp tips. (Very large stalks tend to come from older plants and can be tough.). If the stalks bend without breaking it's a good sign that they have definitely seen better days. Asparagus is usually boiled or steamed, but can be grilled or roasted for a different, slightly nutty flavour. There is a special asparagus pan (useful but not necessary) that allows the spears to stand upright in boiling water, while the steam gently cooks the more delicate tips. But you can cook them simply in a large pan of boiling water, cover and boil anywhere from 3-6 minutes - this will depend on the size and freshness of the spears. (450g should be enough for 2 people.)
The classic accompaniment for steamed or boiled asparagus is hollandaise sauce but all fish and shellfish dishes, roast lamb, wild mushrooms and truffles can also be perfect partners along with anchovies, aioli, new potatoes, smoked bacon and cheese sauce.

GRILLED ASPARAGUS WITH ROMESCO SAUCE (serves 4)

For grilling you need fairly thick asparagus, not the very thin asparagus. Look at the tips to make sure the asparagus hasn't begun to flower. Peel and blanch the asparagus in boiling salted water until the stalks are crisp and just “al dente”.

12 blanched asparagus stalks

SALSA ROMESCO:
1 large red pepper
450g olive oil
100g peeled almonds
3 garlic cloves (crushed)
5 1tbsp. tomato puree
2tspn. Paprika
1 slice of stale bread
50ml brandy
30ml sherry vinegar seasoning
Roast the red pepper in a hot oven or place under a hot grill until the skin starts to blacken and blister. Place in a bowl and cover well with cling-film. The steam will help to remove the skin from the peppers. When cold enough to handle, cut the peppers in half lengthways and remove the seeds. Peel the skin away from the flesh and place the peeled, de–seeded pepper in a liquidiser. Place the almonds, garlic, stale bread and half the olive oil in a frying pan and toast them over a gentle heat. Add this mixture to the peppers and blend to a puree. Add the tomato puree, paprika, brandy and sherry vinegar and whisk in the remaining olive oil to emulsify and thicken the sauce. Season to taste and chill until required.
Brush the asparagus spears with olive oil and coarse salt.
Grill over hot coals, turning once, just long enough to colour lightly and warm throughout, about 1 minute on each side.
Serve the hot asparagus with romesco sauce and a large green salad.
ASPARAGUS AND PARSLEY SOUP (serves 4)

· This soup can be served hot or cold
500 g asparagus stalks
1L chicken stock
50 ml olive oil
100 g chopped onions
2 potatoes (peeled and chopped)
150 ml milk
bunch of fresh parsley
seasoning
lGently sweat the chopped onions in the olive oil, without colouring.
Add the potatoes, asparagus stalks and cover with chicken stock.
Simmer gently over a gentle flame for 15-20 minutes until the potatoes are just cooked.
Add the fresh parsley and season to taste. Place in a liquidiser and blend to a fine puree.
Pass through a fine sieve and serve hot or cold.