US journalist gives tips on how to discover the Jewel of the Mediterranean

Located in the Mediterranean Sea one hundred miles due south of Barcelona, Mallorca has become renowned for its beaches and nightlife, the island famously offering world-weary civilians escape from the demands of their daily routines. But dare to delve more deeply into its history, touch on its unique culture, uncover its secrets, seek out its many gems, and you will be rewarded with memorable gifts that far outlasts traditional wanderings. With Catalan and Spanish the native languages, travelers will be happy to know English is spoken most everywhere, just be patient.

A Mediterranean climate, Mallorca boasts beach resorts with sheltered coves dotting the perimeter of the island, attracting visitors from cold climes with its hot, dry summers that languidly unfold a refreshing definition to tranquility. However, Mallorca’s winters, which tend toward the mild and relatively wet, presents its own charms (with the added aspect of much fewer tourists) and an autumn that holds treasures all its own. Between January and March, when the almond trees come into blossom, the valleys and plains become blanketed with white, looking like a layer of snow has fallen during the night. Also, the winter and autumn months reward with a tantalizing, painterly light. There is a pleasantness to wandering the near empty avenues of Palma’s Old Town in the cold of evening, where a host of bars and cafes offer warmth and comfort; tailor to your mood with atmospheres from draft beer at quirky and loud establishments, to cocktails sipped quietly at exclusive haunts, the choices are endless.

The Council of Mallorca's PLEDGE for a better island to live in and a better island to visit

• 1. Mallorca will be your home, take care of it as if it were your own. – Remember the importance of caring for and protecting the territory through keeping the island clean and collecting waste that is generated.
• 2. Appreciate and protect nature. – Promotion of the enjoyment of the island’s unique natural environment, always with respect and attention to the rules.
• 3. The traces of unforgettable moments will be the only thing you leave. – A reminder of the importance of minimising ecological impact, mainly by making responsible use of natural resources.
• 4. Local is key. Buy, Consume and Live Locally. Promotion of purchasing and consumption of local products, both gastronomic and artisan.
• 5. Observe marine life. Take only photos, don’t kill anything but time. – Promotes special attention to the care of the delicate marine environment.
• 6. Rs to protect the environment; Reuse, Reduce and Recycle. Promotes the reduction of consumption of the more polluting sources like plastic. Advocates the practice of recycling everything that is generated.
• 7. Communities of heart. Global Guests: Global Tourist, Local Heart. – Mallorca is the common home of those who live and those who visit, respect and care are the responsibility of all.
• 8. The soul of a wonderful destination to live and at the same time visit. – Encourages participation and adherence to the Pledge; all residents, visitors, businesses, public authorities, tourism sector… we are all responsible for a Mallorca protected for future generations.

Palma: a bustling capital city

Mallorca is small enough to allow discovery even if you’re limited in days, yet large enough to not fall to the affects of the dreaded island fever. Most pilgrims are surprised by the bustling capital city of Palma, with its many squares, malls, theaters, restaurants, museums and galleries. Allow plenty of time to get lost in the maze of narrow avenues of old town, with the delight of discovering small shops and cafes tucked away from the rush of the main avenues.

Plan for several days sans rental car to explore Palma and avoid the concern of finding parking, which can be a challenge. A walking city, Palma can be explored on foot. And although the island famously boasts a vibrant nightlife, be sure to venture out into the far reaches of the island, its mountains and plains, to truly get a sense of its diversity and scope.

To that end, Mallorca enjoys an excellent and efficient public transportation system (buses and trains) that, once accustomed to, makes navigation easy, ensuring that even remote portions of the island are accessible. The island plays well to a rental car for a true sense of freedom and independence. My preferred mode of transportation, as a motorcycle journalist, is two-wheels—which are also available to rent (all sizes of motorcycles and scooters).

As stunning backdrop, visible from virtually anywhere on the island, the Serra de Tramuntana mountain range skirts the northern part of the island and runs its entire length. Declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2011, the range is characterized by Puig Major, Mallorca’s highest peak, which stands at approximately 1,445 meters (4,741 feet) above sea level. The range is laced with an extensive array of trails with everything from simple paths, easily trekked, to demanding, sure-footed outings for the serious hiker. Always available to those who choose to hike are amazing panoramic views of the coastline and sea.

Presidents, diplomats, super models and various celebrities have visited Mallorca over the years, some remaining. Jimi Hendrix famously vacationed here. But two of the island’s most famous—perhaps infamous—visitors were Polish composer, Frederic Chopin, and authoress George Sand, who spent the winter of 1838-39 here. These two “great tragic people of genius” had only recently become romantically linked, and ran off to the island to escape the harsh winter of Paris, spending three months on the island during its coldest season. Suffering serious bouts of bronchitis, which had the islander’s fearing consumption (tuberculosis), the entourage of Sand, Chopin, and her two children found shelter in the abandoned Carthusian monastery of Valldemossa. Despite illness and cursed with use of a “pitiful piano,” Chopin managed to compose the famous Preludes. For her time on Mallorca, despite caring for her “invalid,” Sand completed her novel, Spiridion. Years later she would write and publish Winter In Majorca, which chronicles the three months they spent on the island.

Today, Valldemossa, a charming mountain village nestled in the Serra de Tramuntana Mountains, just a short drive from Palma, plays host to a series of concerts, the village itself presenting as a pleasant walking tour. The main tourist attraction is the Sand/Chopin museum, which is set in Celda No. 4 of the monastery, and comprises the former monk’s cells where Chopin, Sand, and her children lived. The museum pays homage with a wonderful display of memorabilia from that historically, and musically significant period, including Chopin’s Pleyel piano, which arrived just weeks before they departed.

Venturing out from Valldemossa one discovers a host of charming stone villages. Narrow winding mountain roads with incredible views of the sea lead to charming enclaves begging discovery. Shops, historical sites, beautiful stone buildings, beaches and eateries are to be found. All across the island, with special prominence here in the mountains, olive groves flourish. Some of the trees are a thousand years old, gnarled and monstrous-looking, yet still producing.

A short drive to the east is the village of Deya, a famous destination known as a haven for artists and the reclusive. There is an appropriately prophetic quote, attributed to Gertrude Stein—that inventor of catchy phrases—who, when author Robert Graves asked her about Mallorca as a possible home, responded, “It’s paradise, if you can stand it.” Graves settled in Deya as one of its most famous academics, and never left. It’s easy to see why. This rustic enclave, tucked away from life both in terms of geography and mindset, enjoys an ethereal aura that is difficult to articulate.

Venturing further along the winding mountain roads traipsing the mountains, it’s easy to see why motorcycle enthusiasts (of which I am one) find joy here. Mallorca enjoys a very lively local two-wheel community, with the classic Spanish passion for bikes. A number of events throughout the year draw upwards of 7,000 participants. Mallorca also enjoys world class cycling (in the form of pedals), the challenging mountain passes providing exceptional training for visiting world class riders. One of the most famous and demanding roads—given the switchbacks and elevation change, is the route to Sa Calobra, a beautiful port village and beach.

Continuing along the main road you will arrive to the village of Soller, and Port Soller, two points of interest that are beautiful and charming and should be included in any visitor’s agenda, though be prepared for crowds in peak season. If you’re without a car there is a vintage narrow-gauge train that runs from the center of Palma through the mountains to the center of Soller, offering passengers different scenery from that of the road. Continuing east there is Cap de Formentor, Pollensa Bay and Port de Pollenca, where sunrise bursts dramatic.

There are multiple hot spots for nightlife on Mallorca, with Old Town Palma providing perhaps the best array of places to eat or have a drink, and to walk around. The Spanish do not need a great deal of coaxing to find reasons to celebrate, and Mallorca tends toward celebrations of all things lively and beautiful, so check for local holidays where parades and good times are always on order. Art galleries and music festivals - Mallorca seems to be an island in constant unfolding of fun.

There’s a beautiful tug of war for the Mallorcan visitor, choosing between getting jacked up on a full day of sightseeing, or being lazy and lounging at the beach, perhaps napping a little more than is reasonable, with the goal for the day being simply choosing an establishment for dinner. Possessing the classic and much sought after laziness of afternoon siestas and long, drawn-out visits at cafes, Mallorca blends the best of the Iberian lifestyle with an ease of modern travel.

At the very top of the laundry list of sights to see in Mallorca, and not easily missed, is the towering Gothic Roman Cathedral of Santa Maria of Palma, situated on the seashore, the icon of the island. Construction began in 1229 and continued into the 17th century. It is a sight you won’t soon forget. A short walk away is Bellver Castle, a circular structure situated to command 360-degree views as a defensive fort. The history of Mallorca is proudly on display in the form of castles, revetments, cathedrals, and monasteries. One would be remiss if they didn’t make effort to see the many Roman and Moorish remains that comprise such a rich ancestral past woven into the fabric of the island, the ancient peacefully existing alongside the modern.

Social media carry pictures and videos of some of Mallorca’s prized locations, but the truly intrepid visitor is best-advised to chart their own path and seek out their own island experience. Mallorca’s tourism department has plenty of available material to assist in mapping out an adventure that encapsulates a wide range of activities. And of course, you can always do nothing, which is what Mallorca has made famous. Mallorca has turned mañana into a national pastime. There are places where it’s possible to lose track of what time of day it is. Here it’s possible to lose track of what day of the week it is. And remember, wherever you venture, you are never lost. So long as you don’t leave it’s shores, you know you’re somewhere in Mallorca.

Getting there

Palma is a popular destination, therefore flights are abundant. From the U.S. flyers will usually transition through a major European hub such as Madrid or Zurich. Recently a direct flight from New York to Palma was introduced for summer and has proven a great success of easement for Americans to discover this jewel of the Mediterranean.